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🚲 Bicycles, Carts & Hauling Without Fuel

When the gas runs out, everything you move goes on your back, on wheels you push, or on a bicycle. This guide covers how much one person can move and how fast, travel times from Cave Junction, loading a bike, building a trailer (welded steel or no-weld pallets), hitches and trailer brakes, wheelbarrows and handcarts, hills, keeping a bike running with few tools, spares to stock, and local hazards. The books are in Bicycles-Carts\ (Bicycle-Repair and Trailers-Carts). Pack animals, wagons and harness are in Horses-Draft-Animals\ and the Horse guide; brazing and forge work are in Blacksmithing-Tools\ and the Blacksmithing guide.

Know the limits of the books. The repair manuals date from 1896 to 1978. Their methods for tubes, tyres, spokes, cup-and-cone hubs, chains and steel frames still work. But the library has little on modern parts: hydraulic disc brakes, tubeless tyres, indexed ("click") shifting, suspension and e-bikes. Stock their spares (pads, bleed kit and fluid, sealant, cables) now. A plain steel bike with rim brakes is the easiest to keep running (rule of thumb).

⚠️ Rules that prevent the worst outcomes

• A loaded bike takes longer to stop (Adult Cycling Manual, p. 97), and wet rim brakes stop much worse. Start every descent slowly, test the brakes at the top, and remember that a trailer with no brake shoves the bike downhill (rule of thumb).
• Don't wreck your body. A normal day load on your back is 10–20 kg (22–44 lb); 50 kg (110 lb) only for short distances (World Bank, p. 65). Put heavy loads on wheels.
• Never ride a kinked frame tube or fork. A buckled tube is weakened and must be replaced (Burr, p. 73). Keep at least 2 in of seat post inside the frame (Henry, p. 54).
• Never clean parts in gasoline. Use kerosene, diesel or degreaser, outdoors, away from flames.
• Fire season (June–October): don't drag metal. A chain or trailer part scraping on rock can start a wildfire. Haul in the cool early morning and carry water (rule of thumb).
• Braze outdoors, and only steel frames. Brass gives off zinc fumes. Aluminium and carbon frames cannot be brazed.

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🏋️ How much one person can move

The biggest lesson in these books: get the load off your back and onto wheels. The World Bank's planning table — rough, order-of-magnitude numbers only (World Bank, p. 66):

How you move it	Load	Speed	Typical trip
Carried (back or head)	20 kg (44 lb)	5 km/h (3 mph)	up to 10 km (6 mi)
Sledge (dragged) (Sled)	100 kg (220 lb)	4 km/h (2.5 mph)	short
Wheelbarrow	100 kg (220 lb)	4 km/h (2.5 mph)	about 1 km
Handcart	150 kg (330 lb)	4 km/h (2.5 mph)	about 5 km (3 mi)
Bicycle	60 kg (130 lb)	10 km/h (6 mph)	about 20 km (12 mi)
Cycle rickshaw or tricycle	150 kg (330 lb)	8 km/h (5 mph)	—

On your back:

• A wheelbarrow or handcart lets the same person move 50–100 kg (110–220 lb) comfortably, against a normal 10–20 kg carried (World Bank, p. 65).
• Weight costs distance. In a 6-hour march you cover about 2 km less for every 10 lb carried over 40 lb (FM 21-18, p. 65). Porters can carry 120 lb for several days at 12 mi a day; 150 lb brings exhaustion and injury (p. 71).
• A packboard (pack frame) makes 50 lb an easy load; most people can manage 100 lb. Pack it compact and high, heaviest items on the upper half, lashed tight. To lift it, sit against the upright board, put on the straps, roll onto hands and knees and stand. Rest it on a stump — never drop it (Use of the Packboard, pp. 1–2; lifting and resting it, drawn; lashing a load; why a high load costs less energy).

On wheels:

• In a US Army test, pushing 50 kg (110 lb) in a cart on a smooth surface took 88% less energy than carrying it (Knapik, p. 37; ways of carrying loads that were tested).
• Ordinary bicycles carry up to about 100 kg (220 lb). For very big loads the bike is pushed, not ridden. Bikes work best on flat, hard surfaces (World Bank, p. 65).

Ground matters — effort of walking with a load (Knapik, p. 42):

Paved road	Dirt road	Light brush	Heavy brush	Swampy bog	Loose sand
1.0×	1.1×	1.2×	1.5×	1.8×	2.1×

📚 Go deeper: World Bank Improving Rural Mobility — loads, speeds and costs for every kind of human and animal transport; Knapik Load Carriage — carts, terrain and injuries; Use of the Packboard — illustrated loading and lashing.

🗺️ Travel times from Cave Junction

Walking pace with a load (FM 21-18, p. 89): on roads 4.0 km/h (2.5 mph) by day, 3.2 km/h at night; cross-country 2.4 km/h by day, 1.6 km/h at night. A normal day is 20–32 km (12–20 mi), or 5–8 hours on the move.

• Rest 15 minutes after the first 45 minutes, then 10 minutes in every hour (FM 21-18, p. 48).
• At halts, lie down with your feet up. Carry spare socks; tape known hot spots before they blister (FM 21-18, p. 101; photo of friction blisters; Blister).

In hills, plan by time, not miles. Add one-third to the map distance, then 1 hour for every 1,000 ft (300 m) of climb, or every 2,000 ft (600 m) of descent (FM 3-97.6, p. 72).

From Cave Junction (library walking routes: highway miles, back roads in brackets):

To	Miles	On foot (15 mi a day)	Loaded bike at about 6 mph	By car, normal times
Grants Pass	29 (40)	2 days (3)	about 5 hours (7) — one day	44 min
Crescent City	53 (64)	4 days (4)	about 9 hours (11) — a long day or two	1 h 15 min
Medford	59 (62)	4 days (4)	about 10 hours (10–11) — a long day or two	1 h 23 min
Roseburg	101 (122)	7 days (8)	about 17 hours (20) — 2–3 days	2 h 11 min

Car times are normal driving times with roads open, from the route pages. Bike times use the World Bank's loaded-bicycle speed of 10 km/h (p. 66) and are moving time only. Add the climbing allowance, rests, flats and pushing up steep grades (rule of thumb). A handcart moves at walking pace but carries several times as much.

Local notes (Start Here guide): back roads are longer, steeper and remote, and high passes can get snow. After a Cascadia quake, expect landslides and broken bridges on routes like US-199. Walking, bicycle and driving routes with GPX tracks for 359 towns are in Walking-Routes\WALKING-ROUTES.html.

📚 Go deeper: FM 21-18 Foot Marches — march rates, halts, loads and foot care; FM 3-97.6 Mountain Operations — time rules for steep country.

🎒 Walking instead? Loads, packs, feet, water, camps, river crossings and safety on the road are in On Foot.

🎒 Loading a bicycle

How to load it (Adult Cycling Manual, p. 97):

• Touring cyclists usually carry 30–50 lb, on the bike — a backpack makes balance harder. (Bicycle touring)
• Put heavy items low in the panniers and split the load front and rear. Too much weight in front spoils the steering.
• A loaded bike needs lower gears, sways more and takes longer to stop. Practise with the load before a real trip.

Making a bike carry more (Practical Action, Bicycles):

• Panniers can be sacks or baskets hung from wood across the carrier, or a light steel frame. Keep the sides balanced, and strengthen the carrier (p. 2; pannier frame drawing; Pannier).
• The load is limited by the rear wheel and tyre; a stronger rear wheel helps (p. 3).
• Longer carrier without cutting the frame: bolt on extra stays and move the rear wheel back about 250 mm (10 in). The chain and brake rods must be lengthened (p. 3; extension drawings).
• A small 20-inch rear wheel is stronger, keeps the load low and makes pedalling easier, but handles potholes worse (p. 4; drawing).

A pannier frame bolted to the carrier, sizes in mm (640 long, 500 tall, 320 wide); the carrier is strengthened with steel angle (Practical Action, p. 2).

Pushing big loads: in Zambia, people pushed two 50 kg sacks of maize on one bicycle up to 30 km (19 mi) to town (Bicycle Trailers in Zambia, p. 1).

Before a loaded trip (rule of thumb): tyres firm, brakes grabbing hard, carrier bolts tight, nothing able to swing into the spokes, and patch kit, pump and water aboard. Learn the names of the parts from a labeled bicycle drawing (the key is on p. 31).

📚 Go deeper: Adult Cycling Manual — loaded touring and riding skills; Practical Action Bicycles — dimensioned pannier frames and carrier extensions. Pictures: Cargo bike.

🛒 Bicycle trailers: welded steel or no-weld pallets

A trailer lets a rider move about three times the bike's own load, roughly 200 kg (450 lb) (Practical Action, Bicycle Trailers, p. 1).

But not always. In northern Ghana, trailers promoted in the 1990s failed: heavy to pull loaded, poor on footpaths, and twice the cost of a bicycle. A plain bike with a strong carrier was more flexible (World Bank, p. 39).

Welded steel trailer (Bicycle Trailers, pp. 3–4; frame drawings: p. 2, p. 3):

• Frame: 19 mm (3/4 in) mild-steel square tube, or round tube at least 22 × 1.5 mm (25 × 1.5 mm is better). Reinforce each joint with a piece of tube or bar inside it.
• Ordinary bike wheels are fine for light loads on good roads, but not for heavy loads on rough tracks. Use strengthened wheels (p. 4).
• A local welder in Zambia built these from the drawings for about $100 each (Zambia report, p. 1).

No-weld pallet trailer — about one day and about 20 euros (Low-tech Lab). You need 2 pallets, 2 bicycle wheels, wood screws and 1 old inner tube; a crowbar, hammer, saw and screwdriver.

1. Decide what it must carry. Keep it no wider than 1 m (39 in) (p. 3).
2. Take the pallets apart with the crowbar and hammer (p. 3).
3. Build the frame from the centre outward. The side boards must be as thick as the wheel so they frame it (p. 4; the numbered boards; Pallet).
4. Fix the wheels before the outer boards go on (p. 5).
5. Hitch it to the bike's rear rack with the inner tube (p. 6).

Hitches (Bicycle Trailers, p. 4; hitch design; Poston's scrap-steel hitch):

• Hitch above the rear wheel, to the carrier or the frame under the seat. It is simpler than an axle-level hitch, works on earth roads, and lets the trailer double as a handcart.
• The recommended joint is a rubber ball in a steel socket.
• Any hitch must hold the load, let the bike lean, come off easily, and take braking and pulling forces from every direction (Low-tech Lab, p. 6).

Trailer brakes and carrying the injured (Bicycle Ambulance, pp. 2–3; frame diagram): a stretcher trailer carries two people, with a shock absorber and a ball-joint hitch so the bike can turn. Its overrun brake works by itself: when the bike slows, the trailer pushes a rod into a sprung tube, which pulls a brake cable on the trailer wheel. No trailer brake? Slow down early, drag a foot, or walk it down steep hills (rule of thumb).

📚 Go deeper: Practical Action Bicycle Trailers — parts list with tube sizes and frame drawings; Low-tech Lab pallet trailer — the no-weld build; Bicycle Ambulance — hitch and overrun-brake part sizes; Trailer Hitch (Poston) — a lathe-free hitch from scrap steel and rubber. Pictures: Bicycle trailer.

🛞 Wheelbarrows, handcarts, sledges and travois

A better wheelbarrow (Wilson, The Wheelbarrow):

• Use one large wheel with most of the load directly over it. Leave little weight on the handles, and take that with a shoulder strap. The traditional Chinese barrow built this way carried up to six people (p. 1).
• A homemade barrow wheel can run on a standard bicycle axle and cone bearings, with a solid tyre of strips cut from old car tyres (p. 2; wheel drawing).
• Choose air-filled tyres (adjust pressure for rough ground), keep the load low, and make several light trips rather than one heavy one (USFS Handtools for Trail Work, p. 42, with wheelbarrow drawings).

Handcarts:

• A balanced handcart, with most of the weight on the wheels, is easier than a one-wheel barrow (World Bank, p. 65).
• A good load cart has a low centre of gravity, a wide wheelbase and big wheels. Pulled carts are easier to control on rough ground. A cart pulled from a hip belt finished a 3.2 km mixed course 54% faster than people carrying rucksacks. The carts were noisy in brush and rock, and gear caught in the wheels — so guard the wheels (Knapik, p. 37).
• Cart bodies are often built on scrap car or pickup axles. Large wheels roll through ruts and holes better than small ones (Starkey, p. 85; big wheel vs small wheel in a rut; cart wheel, hub and bearing, labeled; Handcart).

Sledges are cheap and narrow, and go where carts can't — too steep, muddy or narrow. But they pull harder, snag on stumps, and their ruts turn into gullies (Starkey, p. 83; simple wooden sledge; Sled).

Travois (behind a horse or mule): two straight poles 14–20 ft long with a platform 2–3 ft wide behind the animal, and three people to handle it at ditches and streams (FM 25-7, p. 166; travois drawing).

📚 Go deeper: Wilson The Wheelbarrow — the big-wheel barrow and a homemade wheel; Wheelbarrow construction drawings — six dimensioned sheets for a steel barrow; Selvidge, p. 104 — replacing a wagon spoke, and p. 95 — shrinking on an iron tyre. Pictures: Wheelbarrow, Travois.

⛰️ Hills and grades

The extra push on a slope is roughly the total weight times the grade (rule of thumb, simple physics). A 10% grade rises 10 ft for every 100 ft along the road (Grade).

Grade	Extra push for a 220 lb (100 kg) load
5%	about 11 lb
10%	about 22 lb
15%	about 33 lb

That is on top of the push needed on the flat. (Rules of thumb:)

• Pushing much over 25–30 lb for long is very tiring.
• On grades over about 10%, use two people (one pulling with a rope or hip belt), or split the load.
• A loaded bike on a steep Forest Service road is often faster walked and pushed than ridden.
• Going down: a trailer with no brake shoves the bike. Slow down at the top, not halfway. Drag a foot or add a brake. On a handcart, put someone behind holding back on a rope.

📚 Go deeper: Knapik Load Carriage — terrain factors and energy cost; FM 3-97.6 — moving in steep country.

🩹 Flat tyres: patching tubes and booting tyres

Patching a tube (Henry, pp. 61–65):

1. Before you take the tyre off, mark where it sits against the valve, or count spokes from the valve, so you can find the thorn later (p. 63).
2. Lever one side of the tyre off and pull the tube out. Careless levering tears the tube (p. 64; Tire lever, Inner tube).
3. Find the leak: pump the tube up a little and listen or feel near your face, or dunk it in water and watch for bubbles (p. 64).
4. Find the cause: feel inside the tyre at the matching spot for the thorn (p. 64).
5. Roughen around the hole with sandpaper (p. 65).
6. Coat tube and patch with rubber cement. Wait about 10 minutes until it is tacky (p. 65).
7. Press the patch on hard, dust with talc ("French chalk") and refit the tube dry (p. 65).

Tips: old inner tubes make good patch rubber (p. 61). A patch kit more than a year old may have gone bad (p. 62). If a tyre goes soft with no hole, check the valve first (p. 62). Tyres lose 10–20 psi within a week anyway, so check pressure often (Adult Cycling Manual, p. 72).

Booting a cut or burst tyre:

• Glue canvas inside the tyre over the damage, or a patch cut from an old tyre (Henry, p. 70).
• Fill small tread cuts with leather dust (rasped from scrap leather) mixed into rubber cement (Henry, p. 69).
• A modern road kit: two denim boots about 1 × 2 in, 6 patches, 2 tyre levers, a spare tube, talc and a pressure gauge (Adult Cycling Manual, p. 34).

📚 Go deeper: Henry Cycle Building and Repairing — tyres, tubes, valves and repairs; Adult Cycling Manual — the tool and tyre kit. Pictures: Bicycle tire.

🔩 Wheels, hub bearings and chains

Truing a wobbly wheel (Henry, pp. 44–46; truing a wheel in its own fork with chalk; Wheelbuilding):

1. Spin the wheel in the frame and hold chalk beside the rim so it marks the spots that stick out.
2. A spoke pulls the rim toward its own side of the hub. At each chalk mark, tighten the spokes that run to the other side of the hub, a little at a time, with a spoke (nipple) key.
3. Fix out-of-round the same way: tighten spokes at the high spots, loosen them at the low spots.
4. File off spoke ends that poke through the nipples, or they will puncture the tube.
5. Replace broken spokes one at a time, so you keep the lacing pattern (lacing drawing; Spoke).

Rim rubbing the chalk on the left? Tighten the spokes that run to the right side of the hub, a little at a time (a diagram drawn for this guide).

Hub bearings (Henry, pp. 46–47; hub parts named; cup, cone, balls and locknut, with how to hold the spanners):

• A clicking wheel usually has a broken ball or worn cones. Open the hub; clean cups, cones and axle in kerosene.
• Throw away chipped balls. Take a sample ball when you look for new ones.
• Grease the cups, put the balls back, screw the cone up tight, then back it off about half a turn. Twisted by its spokes, the wheel should spin freely with almost no side play.

The parts of a cup-and-cone hub, and the two-wrench grip: hold the cone still while you turn the locknut against it (Adult Cycling Manual, p. 58).

Chains:

• Soak a filthy chain in kerosene for 2–3 days, hang it to drip, wipe it, then oil it (Henry, p. 52).
• To shorten an old riveted chain, file off the burred pin heads and punch the pins out (Henry, p. 53; chain links drawn; putting a chain on).
• Modern chains need a chain tool: push the pin almost out, leaving about 1/32 in in the side plate so it can go back in. A chain wears out in 1–2 years of average use, and a new chain may skip on a worn freewheel, so the two often need replacing together (Adult Cycling Manual, p. 104; Freewheel).

📚 Go deeper: Henry — lacing and truing wheels, hubs and chains; Adult Cycling Manual, p. 103 — chain cleaning, oiling and stiff links; Burr Bicycle Repairing — bearings, forks and shop-made tools. Pictures: Bicycle wheel, Bicycle chain.

🛑 Brakes, gears and field fixes

Rim brakes (Adult Cycling Manual, p. 48; center-pull and side-pull brakes): released, the pads should sit about 1/16 in from the rim, and they should hit the rim before the lever reaches the handlebar. New cables stretch — tighten them again after about a week.

Derailleur gears (p. 81; rear derailleur with its screws lettered): won't shift onto the largest cog? Back out its limit (stop) screw. Still short? Take up cable slack with the barrel adjuster. Shifts by itself? Tighten the thumbscrew holding the shift lever.

Field fixes:

• Bent crank: hold the bike steady and push the crank back with your foot — usually straight enough to finish the trip (Henry, p. 47).
• Bent frame tube: a slight bend can be straightened, but a buckled (kinked) tube cannot. Replace it (Burr, p. 73; truing a frame; Bicycle frame).
• Broken steel frame tube — braze it over a sleeve (Rowe, pp. 60–61; Burr's drawings of a tube mended over an inner sleeve; Lugged steel frame):
  1. File the broken ends smooth and clean them bright, inside and out.
  2. Fit a sleeve of light steel tube inside both ends; pin it if needed to hold the frame in line.
  3. Coat the joint with borax mixed with water to a paste (the flux) (Borax).
  4. Heat it in a charcoal fire or a blacksmith's forge. At a low red heat, lay on brass spelter and let it flow into the joint. Don't overheat.
  5. Work outdoors (zinc fumes). Steel only — aluminium frames (smooth welds, no lugs, often marked 6061 or 7005) and carbon frames cannot be brazed.

The mend from steps 1–5, cut open: a sleeve inside both broken ends, brass flowed into the joint (a diagram drawn for this guide).

Old words in the old books: paraffin = kerosene; French chalk = talc; spanner = wrench; cover = tyre; solution = rubber cement.

📚 Go deeper: Adult Cycling Manual — brake, derailleur, headset and bottom-bracket adjustment; Rowe Hard Soldering — brazing with blowpipe, charcoal or forge; Burr — frame tubes, lugs and forks. Pictures: Bicycle brake, Derailleur, Brazing.

📦 Spares to stockpile

(Rule of thumb, building on the kit list in the Adult Cycling Manual, p. 34.)

• A good floor pump — above all (Bicycle pump)
• Tubes and patch kits for every tyre size you own; spare tyres
• Chains with spare links; brake pads; inner cables and housing
• Spokes in the right lengths for each wheel
• Loose bearing balls (3/16 in and 1/4 in are common), grease, chain oil, rim tape, valve cores
• Tools: tyre levers, chain tool, spoke key, pressure gauge (Bicycle tools)

Match tyres by the ISO number on the sidewall, not by "26 inch." A size like 37-622 means 37 mm wide on a 622 rim (rule of thumb). (ISO 5775 tyre sizes)

ISO rim number	Sold as
559	26-inch mountain bike
584	650B (also called 27.5)
622	700C, or 29er
590	old "26 × 1 3/8" (3-speeds) — will not fit a 559 rim

Valves: Schrader (car-type) valves fill from any car pump; Presta (thin) valves need a matching pump head or adapter. Store rubber cool and dark, away from electric motors, which make ozone that cracks it (rule of thumb).

📚 Go deeper: Adult Cycling Manual, p. 34 — tool kit and tyre kit lists; Henry, p. 61 — patch rubber from old tubes. Pictures: Presta valve, Schrader valve.

🌲 Illinois Valley hazards

(Rules of thumb for our area.)

• Goatheads (puncturevine) grow in dry, disturbed ground — road edges, driveways, bare lots. Carry extra patches or thorn-resistant tubes. Learn the plant and pull it before it seeds (weed photo list, p. 53; Puncturevine).
• Rocky and serpentine Forest Service roads cause pinch flats under load. Run tyres firmer when loaded, and walk the worst rock. (Serpentinite)
• Fire season (June–October): keep chains and metal parts from dragging and throwing sparks. Haul in the early morning with plenty of water.
• Wet winters wash the oil off chains and rust them. Wipe and re-oil after every rain ride.
• Rim brakes stop much worse when wet. Brake earlier; drag them lightly first to wipe the rims.

📚 Go deeper: Adult Cycling Manual, p. 97 — riding a loaded bike safely; Knapik, p. 37 — carts on rough ground.

⚠️ Old advice in the library to ignore

• Homemade rubber cement from rubber dissolved in "benzine" (gasoline or naphtha) (Henry, p. 61). Very flammable, and benzene fumes are toxic. Use bought cement; if you must make it, mix it outdoors, far from any flame.
• Boiling a chain in mutton tallow (Henry, p. 52). Hot fat is a fire hazard, and tallow holds grit. Soak in kerosene, wipe, and oil lightly.
• Wrapping joints in asbestos cloth or wicking while brazing (Rowe, p. 61; p. 60). Asbestos causes cancer — use wet rags or a sheet-metal shield. Brass spelter gives off zinc fumes that cause "metal fume fever," so braze outdoors.
• "Cleaning solvent from gasoline station" in the tool list (Adult Cycling Manual, p. 34). Never clean parts in gasoline. Use kerosene, diesel or degreaser, outdoors.
• Obsolete parts: single-tube and beaded-edge tyres, cotter-pin cranks (Henry, p. 47) and 1890s frames. Skip those pages; the hub, wheel, patching, brazing and truing methods are still good.
• Military load limits of 30–45% of body weight (Knapik, p. 20) are for fit young soldiers. Plan family loads on 10–20 kg.

📚 Go deeper: Henry, p. 46 — the sound old method: hubs cleaned in kerosene; Adult Cycling Manual, p. 103 — kerosene chain cleaning.

🖼️ Pictures & diagrams

Look before you try it. 🖼️ = drawings in the books on this drive; 📷 = photos in the offline Wikipedia.

Carrying loads

• Ways of carrying loads, compared — Knapik, p. 26
• Why a high load is easier — Knapik, p. 33
• Packboard: lifting, resting and lashing — Use of the Packboard, p. 1; p. 2
• Friction blisters (what to prevent) — Knapik, p. 48; Blister
• Cargo bikes, rickshaws and tricycles — Cargo bike; Cycle rickshaw; Tricycle

Loading a bicycle and trailers

• A bicycle with every part named — Adult Cycling Manual, p. 30
• Pannier frames — Practical Action Bicycles, p. 2; Pannier
• Lengthened carrier and small-rear-wheel conversion — p. 3; p. 4
• Welded steel trailer frames — Bicycle Trailers, p. 2; p. 3; Bicycle trailer
• Trailer hitches — Bicycle Trailers, p. 4; Poston hitch, p. 2
• Pallet trailer build — Low-tech Lab, p. 4
• Bicycle ambulance frame — Bicycle Ambulance, p. 5

Wheelbarrows, carts, sledges and travois

• Big-wheel barrow and homemade wheel — Wilson, p. 2; Wheelbarrow
• Steel wheelbarrow, six dimensioned sheets — construction drawings
• Wheelbarrows for trail work — USFS, p. 42
• Big wheels vs small in ruts; cart hub and bearing — Starkey, p. 85; p. 87; Handcart
• Wooden sledge — Starkey, p. 83; Sled
• Travois — FM 25-7, p. 165; Travois

Wheels, tyres and chains

• Tyre levers and inner tubes — Tire lever; Inner tube; Bicycle tire
• Truing a wheel in its fork — Burr, p. 97; Wheelbuilding
• Lacing spokes — Henry, p. 38; Spoke
• Cup-and-cone hub, named parts — Henry, p. 42; Adult Cycling Manual, p. 58
• Chain links; putting a chain on — Henry, p. 53; Burr, p. 139; Bicycle chain
• Valves — Presta valve; Schrader valve

Brakes, gears and frames

• Center-pull and side-pull rim brakes — Adult Cycling Manual, p. 47; Bicycle brake
• Rear derailleur adjusting screws — Adult Cycling Manual, p. 80; Derailleur
• Mending a broken tube over an inner sleeve — Burr, p. 72; p. 73; Brazing
• Truing a frame; straightening a fork — Burr, p. 77; p. 84; Lugged steel frame

Local hazards

• Goatheads (puncturevine) — Puncturevine
• Serpentine rock on Forest Service roads — Serpentinite

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🔗 Related guides

• Horses, Mules and Draft Animals — pack animals, carts, harness and travois
• Blacksmithing and Hand Tools — brazing, forge work and wagon tyres
• Illinois Valley — Start Here — walking routes, wildfire and Cascadia
• Navigation and Weather — finding your way and reading the weather
• Firewood guide — the heaviest thing most households haul
• Make-Do Household guide — repairs and making do without stores
• Shelter, Building and Repair — hauling lumber and building with what you have
• On Foot: backpacking and travel — how much to carry, packs, feet and blisters, water and food on the move, camps, river crossings and safety on the road.